Coco Chanel by George Hoyningen-Huene, 1935 via
Coco Chanel by George Hoyningen-Huene, 1935 via
Madame Agnes (late 1800s-1949) was France’s most popular milliner. She designed hats that were popular from the late 1920s until the 1940s. She was famous for cutting the brims of her hats while they were worn by her customers. Her shop was located on the Rue Saint-Honoré.
She associated with people in the art circles of Paris and styled hats that were both abstract and unique. She preferred wearing only black fashions, fx. in 1929 she wore black satin frocks designed by Vionnet. Her clothes were embellished with bright jewelry like red coral, jade or lapis lazuli.
Madame Agnes
Madame Agnes in her shop in Paris, 1935
Edward Steichen, Dorothy Smart, hat by Madame Agnès, 1926
Madame Jean Lassalle hat by Madame Agnès, Madame d’Ora, 1929
Portrait of the milliner Agnès by Madame d’Ora, Paris, 1928-1931
Model in hat of bird of paradise feathers by Madame Agnès, spangled jacket by Maggy Rouff, photo by George Hoyningen-Huene, Harper’s Bazaar, 1935
Germaine Émilie Krebs (1903–1993), known as Alix Barton and later as “Madame Grès”, relaunched her design house under the name Grès in Paris in 1942. Prior to this, she worked as “Alix” or “Alix Grès” during the 1930s. Formally trained as a sculptress, she produced haute couture designs for an array of fashionable women, including the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Jacqueline Kennedy, and Dolores del Río.
Her signature was cut-outs on gowns that made exposed skin part of the design, yet still had a classical, sophisticated feel. She was renowned for being the last of the haute couture houses to establish a ready-to-wear line, which she called a “prostitution”.
The name Grès was a partial anagram of her husband’s first name and alias. He was Serge Czerefkov, a Russian painter, who left her soon after the house’s creation.
She retired at the end of the 1980s after French investor Bernard Tapie took control of the company. She died in a low-cost retirement home, apparently alone and penniless.
In 2012, the last Grès store in Paris was closed.
Madame Grès draping a dress, photographed by Boris Lipnitzki, ca. 1935 via
Madame Grès, Dress, photographed by Eugène Rubin for Femina, 1937 via
Madame Grès by George Hoyningen-Huene, 1937 via